LONDON: British pubs are facing something of a crisis: They cannot get enough Guinness. The trouble became evident last week when the Irish beer’s parent company, Diageo, started limiting the number of barrels of Guinness British pubs and bars can order each week.
“Over the past month we have seen exceptional consumer demand for Guinness,” Diageo said. “We have maximised supply and we are working proactively with our customers to manage the distribution to trade as efficiently as possible.”
The black liquid has surged in popularity in the past year. Once seen as an old-timer’s beer, it has become a Gen Z darling, thanks to savvy marketing, celebrity endorsements and a viral drinking challenge. Influencers and ordinary drinkers alike have been trying to “split the G,” which means drinking enough in one chug to leave the foam scything the first letter of the branded pint glasses.
But now, many pubs in Britain say they can’t buy the kegs they need during the busy festive period because of Diageo’s allocation limits. As news of the restricted supply has spread, there has been some panic-buying, analysts said, exacerbating the problem. “It feels like the toilet roll shortages during Covid-19 – the more coverage that comes, the worse the situation gets!” said Richard Hall, managing director of wholesale supplier Inn Express.
Some were sceptical at first. “To be honest, I thought it might have been a PR thing,” said Tommy McGuinness, manager of The Marquis. On Saturday, his London pub was down to its final keg. McGuinness was shocked: “I’ve never run out of Guinness, ever.”
Guinness was the top beer in Britain by volume sales in the year to Nov, according to CGA by NIQ, a hospitality data consultancy. From July to Oct, Guinness keg sales were up 21% compared to the same period last year, while overall beer sales were flat. Devotees love Guinness for its dark richness; other people find it too heavy and too sweet. For fans, it is not just a beer. It is almost a “personality trait,” or maybe a tie to their Irish heritage. “If you order Pepsi and we don’t have it, we’ll give you Coke,” said Andy Mac Manus, manager of London pub The Castle. “There’s no real substitute for Guinness.”
Britain is the only place where Diageo is limiting sales. The issue was fodder for good-natured ribbing at Irish Embassy’s Christmas party in London on Wednesday. Martin Fraser, the ambassador, assured his guests that the embassy’s supply was unaffected – and that no glass would go unfilled that evening.
For British pubs, running out of Guinness is an annoyance. But for Irish pubs, it’s drink or die. “It’s not very authentic if an Irish tavern can’t sell Guinness,” said Shaun Jenkinson, the operations director of Irish pub chain Katie O’Brien’s.
Some see a potential silver lining, at least for similar beers. There’s Murphy’s, another Irish stout, and Camden Stout, from London. Patrick Fitzsimons, who owns The Faltering Fullback, a London pub, said the shortage has piqued his customers’ curiosity about alternatives. “This is the time for these products to shine.”